Teaching
Recommended Materials | Oboes |
|
|
Read the following for my perspective and advice about selecting the right oboe for the young student. I also encourage both student and parent to read some basic information about the Oboe prior to beginning their oboe studies. How do you distinguish the basic difference between a student and professional model oboe?Generally speaking, there are three types of oboes that are named for the style of key system they utilize: student, intermediate, and professional. Student models are usually made of resin (plastic) and have only the basic keys necessary. While student models are light and easy to hold, there will be no left hand F key or low Bb key on a student model instrument. It is highly likely that your student will need to upgrade to an intermediate model instrument within two years of learning how to play the oboe if they show a sincere interest and commitment to studying the oboe.
An intermediate model oboe will have a “modified conservatory” key system and can be made of grenadilla wood, resin, or a combination resin top joint with a grenadilla bottom joint. A modified conservatory key system will have the left hand F, an F resonance key, and an articulated B-C# mechanism, and the low Bb key. A good intermediate oboe will have all the keys necessary for the student to play indefinitely or until they decide to upgrade to a professional oboe. The decision to upgrade usually occurs when the student becomes seriously interested in more sophisticated issues such as tone, projection, and resonance of their sound. ![]() Yamaha YOB-441 Intermediate Model Professional model oboes are usually made of grenadilla wood and will have a “full conservatory system,” which has all the previously mentioned keys of the modified conservatory system plus the split ring Eb-E trill key, adjustable Ab-Bb mechanism, a low Bb vent key, and other special features such as a third octave key, an adjustable thumb rest, or a Philadelphia high D key. Professional oboes are generally hand tuned and finished to high quality specifications. Should I buy or rent an oboe? When dealing with a beginning oboist, I usually recommend renting a student model instrument from a local music store. The oboe is not suited to every student and a good quality instrument is a serious financial investment. Student model oboes are good for learning the basics. However, a good beginner will likely out grow a Student model oboe within two or three years of starting the instrument. Therefore, I do not encourage parents to buy an oboe until all parties involved are convinced of the student’s level of commitment. In my opinion, it is better to save the money you would spend on purchasing a student model and put that amount towards the purchase of an Intermediate model. When evidence of commitment is established, I encourage the parent to purchase an Intermediate model resin instrument (used or new) with a modified conservatory key system. A good resin Intermediate model will be durable (particularly in the dry Arizona desert) have an even scale, nice sound, and all the keys necessary to keep the student playing well into college. While resin may not produce as rich a tone as a wooden instrument, I prefer it as there is no danger of cracking and the instrument tends to be a bit lighter to handle. They can also handle the abuse, neglect, or roughness of your average middle school student and do not require as much sensitive care as a wooden oboe. Lastly, a good Intermediate model oboe will serve the student’s needs well as an amateur oboist throughout their adult life. Another advantage to purchasing a resin Intermediate model is that it will have good resale value in the event the student needs to upgrade to a Professional model. If, by the student’s junior year in high school, they have aspirations to study music or become a professional oboist, it will be necessary for them to upgrade to a wooden Professional model oboe. Buying a Professional model requires hands on guidance. Every oboe is slightly different in sound, scale, and feel. It is therefore important to play and compare different Professional models before investing in one. New wooden oboes also have a “break in” period, which means there is a routine and playing schedule to ease the instrument into full time use. On average, wooden oboes played full time as a professional oboist have a life span between 8-10 years. The bore of the instrument can start to change and the professional oboist will notice subtle changes in resonance that will necessitate the purchase of a new instrument. This is useful information to consider when purchasing a used Professional model instrument for your student. What type of oboe do you recommend? I am not paid to endorse any particular model and my recommendation is based upon the experience I have had as a teacher and performer. If you are going to purchase a new or used Intermediate model oboe, I recommend the Fox Renard 330, or the Yamaha YOB-441. Both are consistent, extremely well made, have an even scale, and generally have a lovely, dark sound. The design of the key system is also very similar to the feel of a professional French model, which makes it easier to transition to either a professional model Loreé oboe or the professional model Custom Yamaha YOB-841. If you are interested in a professional model, I can easily recommend Loreé instruments and the Custom Yamaha YOB-841. Other manufacturers such as Marigaux, Rigotaut, Howarth, Covey, MCW, Laubin, and Fossatti also have excellent reputations and are worth considering. Ultimately, it becomes a question of personal taste and preference when buying a professional model instrument. Where should I buy an oboe? The best shopping tool for buying an oboe is the internet. A simple search for “buy oboe”, “fox renard oboe,” or “yamaha oboe” will yield a dizzying array of results. Before becoming overwhelmed, realize that there are many different manufacturers of oboes and a wide range of prices. Auction sites such as e-bay.com will also list both new and used oboes for sale. Before getting involved in the excitement of trying to score a great deal on an oboe for your student, please consider the following:
I am very cautious when it comes to buying an instrument sight unseen without the assurance of some kind of warranty or return policy. Proceed at your own risk! Instead, I prefer to use a more conventional approach when shopping for an oboe. I recommend starting at the Woodwind & Brasswind website. Woodwind & Brasswind carries many different brands and allows you to compare prices and features of various oboes. They are an extremely reputable dealer and are known for a high level of service. They also have a 45 day return policy. It’s a great place to buy an oboe or start your shopping research. Next, I recommend looking at the following specialty shops that handle both new and used instruments:
Where can I rent an oboe in Tucson? Student model oboes can be rented from Instrumental Music Center , and Beaver's Band Box (520) 325-1509 (Broadway location) or (520)498-0677 (North Oracle location). Finally, if you have more questions or need assistance making a final decision, please contact me. I am more than happy to help you find the right instrument for you or your student. |
Bore: The interior shape of the instrument. The oboe’s bore is conical starting at the end of the double reed and gradually expanding through the bell of the instrument.
Cracking: The term for hairline separation of the wood grain on the surface of the body of the instrument. A common occurrence, it is usually the result of the wood settling through climate and humidity changes. Cracks are usually repaired by either glue or a technique known as pinning, where rods are inserted and used to help fuse the crack closed.
Grenadilla wood: The extremely dense African Blackwood primarily used for the body of oboes and clarinets. Its dense structure lends itself well to the delicate and precise nature of instrument construction and produces a dark and mellow tone quality.
Tonehole undercutting: Read this for a brief explanation of a common technique used to improve the tone and scale of an oboe.